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King/Qeen of Madagascar

Perhaps everyone knows the cartoon character of the self-confident King Julien from the movie Madagascar. But did you know that the film's version distributed in Madagascar has a main character named Queen Juliet?

This version is closer to reality because ring-tailed lemurs, the prototype of the cartoon, live in groups led by the strongest female. Males play an important role as guardians in the group, but the leaders are always females. You will learn this and much more if you visit Madagascar.
Madagascar is the fourth largest island on our planet. In ancient geological times, it separated from Africa and the Indian subcontinent and has been "floating" in the Indian Ocean like a symbolic Noah's Ark since then. Far enough away from continental influences, it has preserved a unique flora and fauna. Everywhere you look, you are surrounded by endemic plants and animals.
Succulents covered with thorns, baobabs, chameleons... These are typical representatives of Malagasy nature.


Didierea madagascariensis ("octopus tree"), or "Sono" in Malagasy, always points its branches to the south, where moist air comes from. This helps with orientation in the terrain.



Didierea madagascariensis in the Reniala Nature Reserve.



Reniala is unique for its combination of thorn forest and majestic baobabs.



The oldest of them is estimated to be 1200 years old.


      Chameleon in action.


You can find the video of the entire event here: chameleon

All these representatives of flora and fauna are unique elements of the local nature. However, one member of the animal kingdom stands out above them, the real king, or more precisely the queen of Malagasy nature: the LEMUR.
The first inhabitants of Madagascar noticed these strange animals when they settled on the island—the nocturnal species of lemurs with reflex eyes, sounds, and even their appearance inspired fear and respect. Lemurs thus became part of Malagasy superstitions and legends. For a long time, killing lemurs was taboo, which was only lifted after the arrival of foreigners on the island.The taxonomy of lemurs is relatively complex and is not completely settled. They belong to the order of primates, the suborder of prosimians (Strepsirhini). Further division is even more complicated, so Slovak simply uses the name lemur for all species of prosimians from the four families of the Lemuridae. Developmentally, they are older than higher primates but are not their predecessors.
Their facial part is elongated with a hairless and moist  snout. The tail is usually long, hairy, and bushy. The earlobes are usually overgrown. A typical feature is their large and strongly colored eyes. Their appearance resembles more dogs (or cats) than primates. However, a look at their limbs ending in long fingers indicates their life in trees.



Lemurs have an innate reflex that allows them to live in trees. Although the young spend their first days of life on the back of their mother, they can also support themselves on tree branches, like this baby lemur (Verreaux's Sifaka).


Why are lemurs so special?
Over 100 species of lemurs have been identified so far, and all live exclusively in Madagascar. Some of them are nocturnal, while others are active mainly during the day. They feed on plant foods and possibly small insects. It was the food sources that were the driving force behind the development of new and new species of lemurs, which helped them spread to practically all habitats on the island. Lemurs are characterized by a wide variety of species. The smallest of the lemur family is 10-20 cm in size (including the tail) and weighs around 30 grams. At the opposite end of the scale is the Indri lemur, which weighs up to 10 kg and reaches a size of up to 70 cm.
The celebrity and media star among lemurs is undoubtedly the ring-tailed lemur.


Ring-tailed lemur with baby in Isalo National Park.


The ring-tailed lemur is the most widespread species of lemur in Madagascar. It lives in a vast area of ​​the southwestern part of the island, inhabiting forests, dry scrubland, mountain forests, rocky terrain, and forests along river banks.
 
It is one of the larger species, with a body length of 40-50 cm. Although it is similar to a medium-sized dog, it weighs only 3-5 kg. It is characterized by a long black and white striped tail, which is often erect and reaches a height of up to one meter. Its fur is gray-white-brown, medium-long with a dense undercoat. The most striking feature is its beautiful amber-brown eyes.
 
It lives in multi-member groups-"troops" of 20-30 members.


The troop is moving.


The group is always led by the most experienced female, who, together with other companions, manages life in the unit. However, males nevertheless play an important role in a group. During movements, they occupy the position of scouts. Their vanguard moves ahead of the entire group and surveys the surroundings. Their highly raised tails play an important orientation and signaling role, within this activity. Another important function of males is marking the territory using the secretion of scent glands located above the wrist joint. The ring-tailed lemur has slender fingers; the thumb is separated from the other fingers on the palm, and the fourth finger is the longest. Unlike other species, it spends a part of its time (20-30%) on the ground, especially during group movements.


The hind legs with an extended foot part are adapted for frequent walking.


Ring-tailed lemur at a trot.


Their basic feed is the leaves and fruits of trees. Therefore, they do not have permanent habitats in groups but live in larger territories.  They also consume small insects, larvae, and feed on small vertebrates.


A favorite food is the fruit of the fig tree.

 
These exceptional animals have several enemies: the feline fossa, the boa constrictor, and several species of birds of prey. However, the most dangerous enemy has been and still is humans.
 
Man threatens the lemur population in several ways. First is the expansion of agricultural land and the associated deforestation. They are also hunted for eating and, due to their cute appearance, they are also made into pets. Although hunting for lemurs is less common today, it contributes to their population reduction.
 
Lemurs in Madagascar have a magnificent evolutionary history. Their development is a model example of species development. From the original one (?), arosed more than a hundred individual species. The gradual settlement of an isolated island with very different habitats from dry steppes to rainforests has allowed the emergence of unique species of distinct shapes, sizes, and life forms.
 
However, their future looks very bleak. Of the entire group, only three species are not endangered and up to 30% are critically endangered. In practice, this means that the number of individuals of some species is calculated at several hundred animals and the last of them could become extinct in 20-30 years.
 
Is there a chance to reverse this critical situation? And what are people doing to save them?
Many activities are trying to change this unfavorable trend. Various organizations and individuals are involved in lemur conservation projects. Global organizations such as WWF, an international and domestic association specialized only in lemur conservation (e.g. Lemur Conservation Network) are participating in these activities, and community groups are also involved in their protection. Government authorities have created legislative conditions for the development of lemur population conservation and are gradually engaging in conservation and research projects in national parks and nature reserves. Let's look at some conservation activities in the southern part of Madagascar.


Reniala Nature Reserve
 
The southernmost is Reniala Nature Reserve, a private reserve established in 2002 and owned by a non-governmental organization. Its primary mission is to protect the original forest of thorn trees and baobabs.


Such a habitat was typical for the south of the island, but its area is quickly shrinking.


A look at the high, solid steel mesh fence tells what it is about the rare piece of nature inside the reserve. It has an area of only about 50 ha, but the value of the protected biotope is priceless. In addition to its basic role, the reserve serves as a refuge and rehabilitation center for ring-tailed lemurs, which were separated from the surrounding natural environment for various reasons.


The view of the lemur family behind the wire fence is not very cheerful. However, we should  realized that the task of the rescue station is their rehabilitation and return to the wild. The next encounters with lemurs on the way north were much more optimistic.


However, the rehabilitation center is only the last solution. Therefore, in 2016, part of the surrounding area was declared a protected area, and the Amoron’i Onilahy Reserve was created. The reserve is managed by local residents under the leadership of WWF. Part of their work is educating residents about nature protection. Since then, the number of lemurs in the rehabilitation station has been falling.


Zombitse Vohibasia National Park
 
The N7 road crosses Zombitse Vohibasia National Park near the town of Sakahara. The park covers an area of ​​36,000 hectares and consists of three associated areas. The previously protected area became a national park in 2002. The entire range of animals and plants is under protection.  In the park live a wide group of birds, amphibians, reptiles, and mammals. And among them eight species of lemurs. One is a local endemic, so you can only find it in this national park. It should be kept in mind that in Madagascar, entrances in order to protected areas are subject to a fee and you can only enter such places accompanied by a certified guide. Their task is to provide information about the park, but also protect nature from inappropriate behavior of visitors. They have the required education and knowledge of the local environment. Without them, you would probably leave the forest disappointed that there are no animals. Guides often work in pairs, with one doing the advanced recon, so you will see almost everything what is there to see in the park.


Without a guide, no one would notice this lovely Hubbard's lemur, which lives only in Zombitsa. Tucked away in a tree hollow at a height of about 15 m, it slumbers and waits for dark, as it is a nocturnal species.


Another exceptional resident is the Verreaux's Sifaka


The Verreaux's Sifaka is also an endangered species and such a close encounter is quite rare.



This species of lemur has the nickname "dancing lemur". He got it because he moves on the ground by walking on his hind legs, reminiscent of an exotic dance.


But even in the air, it can twist interesting figures.



There is a difference between photographing an animal sitting high in a treetop, or having the opportunity to look into its face face to face. This shot was made thanks to the guide and his knowledge of the terrain and the animal's behavior. Attention, any animal attraction is prohibited!


Let's keep going north. Not far from the town of Ranohira is the Isalo National Park.
It was founded in 1962 and has an area of 815 square kilometers. The base of the park is a 70 km range of sandstone mountains. The main attraction of Isalo are the hiking trails that rise to 1600 m above sea level. This area is inhabited by the Bara tribe, who bury their dead in rock cavities and consider Isalo a sacred territory, what helps  protect  the national park. The guides are tribe members and take pride in informing park visitors about tribal history and cultural customs.


Due to erosion, the sandstone cliffs have been formed into beautiful shapes.




Locals gave this territory the nickname „Malagasy Texas“.


This park mainly offers the beauty of inanimate nature, but numerous animal kingdom representatives live here as well.


Although some of them are quite difficult to spot.


And since we are in Madagascar, we cannot miss lemurs. Three species of diurnal and three nocturnal lemurs live here. In addition to the already mentioned sifaka and kata lemurs,  another species of lemur lives in the national park.


The "Dancing Sifaka" and ring-tailed lemur are familiar residents of Isalo.




The trio is completed by the red-fronted lemur, a relatively widespread species in Madagascar. It feeds mainly on leaves.


The next stop on our journey to the north is the Anja Community Reserve.

The Anja Nature Reserve is probably the most successful nature conservation project in Madagascar. Though it has an area of only 30 hectares, it is exceptional in terms of management and the complexity of the entire project. The protected area is a small rocky area surrounded by forests, meadows, and a small lake. Many kinds of animals live here, including several species of chameleons. The dominant animal here is the ring-tailed lemur. The reserve boasts the highest density of their occurrence.




Let's take a closer look at this project. Until 1990, the area suffered from massive deforestation due to the expansion of agricultural land on which rice was grown. However, deforestation was followed by a decrease in water resources. For the local population, rice is a basic food, and the loss of water resources has become an existential issue. The government tried to cut the vicious circle in 1999 by declaring the reserve a protected area. In 2001, the control over the reserve was handed over to the community organization Anja Miray Association. This organization began implementing projects to restore the original state. In their management, they relied on local activists and traditional practices based on the unwritten customary rules of the local inhabitants - members of the Betsileo tribe. They began by persuading people and moving rice fields from the protected area. They began reforesting the area. They introduced new methods of rice cultivation. They established a plantation of fast-growing eucalyptus trees. Their wood is used to make charcoal, which is the only source of fuel for cooking. And last but not least, they created jobs related to the operation of the reserve and tourism. In 2001, the reserve was visited by 300 tourists. In 2023, there were more than 14,000, and the further increase is already limited by nature protection. The community finances operating costs and the costs of school, educational, and health projects from tourism revenues. For those who would be interested in more information about such a successful project, I am attaching two web links:

As I mentioned before, the basic attraction of the reserve is the ring-tailed lemur. It is impossible not to meet them on two dedicated hiking trails. The plus point is that they are used to the presence of people due to long-term cohabitation. If you have enough time, you can observe their life on the treetops and the ground from a few meters away. Mutual respect and compliance with the rules supervised by your guide are a matter of course. When looking at these beautiful intelligent animals, the visitor is tempted to pet them and play with them, which is strictly prohibited and at the same time dangerous. They are still wild animals. But of course, photography is allowed. Here are a few shots from their life:


Female with 3-4 week old baby. The first touch of the ground.



First steps under the protection of a watchful mother.



And now quickly back  to safety.


Like most other lemurs, ring-tailed lemurs give birth to one baby. They are born in the spring, from August to September, at the latest in early October. For the first 15 days, the female carries them on her belly, then the cub moves to the mother's back. After approximately 30-40 days, it starts to move independently, but it returns to the mother's back up to 6 months. Very rarely, twins are born.


This is a very rare exception in the wild. But even for twins, a safe shelter can be found.


At the end of the visit to the reservation, a close encounter with the entire troop: lemur kata

One technical comment. Looking at the cubs, which are carried like jockeys on the mother's backs one wonders how they manage to hold on without any problems even during sudden movements. Judging by the following photo, the fingers probably do not play such a significant role:


       Maybe the physical interaction between the mother's fur and the baby's fur - something like Velcro - plays an important role. If anyone knows more about this, please get in touch.


Ranomafana National Park
was founded in 1991 after a new species of lemur was discovered in this area, which will be mentioned later. It covers an area of ​​up to 42,000 ha. So far, we have been passing through an area that suffered from a lack of water. The situation is radically different in Ranomafana. We are at an altitude of 800 -1200 m above sea level. The area is covered by lush rainforest, where it rains almost daily. Sufficient water is good for the local biodiversity. As for lemurs, 6 diurnal and 6 nocturnal species live here. Ranomafana was registered on the list of cultural and natural heritage of UNESCO. The national park also includes the Val/Bio research center founded thanks to the State University of New York at Stony Brook.


The research also includes tracking the lemurs' movements within the park. Milne-Edwards' sifaka, with its neck tag and GPS tracker, is providing researchers with valuable information about its life.


Ranomafana is one of the research centers because it is a prime example of the diversification of individual species of lemurs. Although the species present feed mainly on tree leaves, each prefers a different diet. Milne-Edvads's sifaka eats mostly flowers, young leaves, and fruit to some extent. The red-faced lemur eats young leaves and flowers. The broad-nosed lemur added bamboo shoots to it.


Red-fronted lemur.


Broad-nosed gentle lemur.


Nocturnal lemurs mainly eat old, fully developed leaves. Exceptions are small nocturnal lemurs, such as Maki mouse lemurs.


Madame berthe's mouse lemur. The smallest of the smallest lemurs. It likes fruit and small insects.


An extreme exception is the golden lemur. First of all, it should be mentioned that this lemur is the most endangered species. It is a critically endangered species. It is endemic to the second. The only place where it lives is Madagascar and only in the Ranomafana National Park. According to estimates, there live only 300 to 700 individuals in the park area. It belongs to the smaller species. It weighs about 1.0-1.5 kg. Its occurrence is tied to the presence of bamboo growth.


Golden lemur found an exceptional food niche among other species.


They feed on bamboo shoots, which contain a high concentration of cyanogenic glycosides. These organic substances are hydrolyzed in the digestive system to form hydrogen cyanide. The daily dose eaten by this exceptional creature could kill more than 10 lemurs of another species. The golden lemur and broad-nosed gentle lemur can neutralize hydrogen cyanide in their bodies and thus ensure enough food that their competitors do not eat. The rainforest habitat allows the entire population of lemurs to survive thanks to the difference in their food mix. Each group in the evolution of the species acquired a different anatomy, from the teeth, through the digestive system to the microbiological mix in the intestinal system. For those who are interested in detailed information about this species difference, I recommend the following video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJhzgCzVC30

Why do lemurs eat mostly leaves? Other primates around the world eat mostly fruit. The lemurs had to adapt to another difference of Madagascar. The local wild-growing fruit contains significantly less organic nitrogen than in other parts of the world. There is a sufficient content of nitrogen in leaves, so lemurs have adapted to this situation. Their digestive system has evolved so that it can process food with a high content of cellulose, tannins, and other difficult-to-digest substances.




The last place we visited on our lemur trip was Andasibe-Mantadia National Park.
The national park was established in 1989. The reason was the increasing deforestation of the surrounding area. The eastern slopes of the central volcanic mountain range stretching across the island are a trap for moisture from the Indian Ocean. Thanks to this, large rainforest areas have grown at altitudes  600-1300 m above sea level. However primary forest gradually began to recede due to the expansion of the agricultural area, and the continuous forested belt gradually turned into isolated forest areas. Park establishment has made it possible to protect at least part of the territory from extinction. First, endangered animals were resettled here from the surrounding forests. These created the basis of a new growing population of protected animals. The national park is under constant pressure from the surrounding logging and, paradoxically, invasive trees such as eucalyptus, Asian bamboo species, and  Cattley's guava. The fact that it is one of the few areas where the critically endangered Indri lemur species lives emphasizes the importance of the national park.


Indri lemur.


Indri is the largest species of lemur. It measures 70 - 90 cm cm and weighs 7-10 kg. It has a stunted tail, rounded ears, long thick fur. It lives in trees, practically does not come down to the ground. It is typically black and white in color, it can be  also almost black.




It lives in small families with several members (less than 10 individuals). It is a critically endangered species also that females do not give birth until they are 6-7 years old. They give birth to one cub every two years. It feeds on leaves, flowers, seeds, and also partially on fruits.




Unlike other lemurs, Indris communicates with loud sounds that can be heard up to several kilometers away. This communication is structured and in some way similar to the communication of whales. The audio recording is here:Indri

In addition to the Indri, another critically endangered lemur species, the diademed sifaka, lives in the national park. It is only slightly smaller than the Indri. It lives in large families (more than 10 individuals). It communicates with indistinct sounds only within the group. Its other life habits are the same as Indri's. Its occurrence in Madagascar is practically identical to that of the Indri lemur.


The diademed sifaka feeds on flower buds.


Its reproductive cycle is the same as Indri's, one cub every two years.

A diademed sifaka with a few weeks old baby.


At the exit from the park, the common brown lemurr said goodbye to us.

A brief glance and a jump back to safety in the treetops.


Our journey to these rare creatures ended in the Andasibe-Mantadia National Park. I would like to thank the company Hanorah Travel, which organized a program for us focused on the world of lemurs. Thanks too to our guide Alan and all his colleagues from the mentioned national parks and reserves.
 
The inhabitants of Madagascar call them the jewels of Madagascar. This comparison is not at all exaggerated. Lemurs have an uncountable value not only for their country but also for the whole world. They are a model of extraordinary species development on our planet. They are an example of how fauna (but also flora) can adapt to changing natural conditions. Malagasy society is increasingly aware of the importance of their protection. As mentioned above, many domestic and foreign organizations are dedicated to lemur protection. Government bodies, international institutions, universities, research centers, volunteers, students, and professionals create a "protective network" that helps the survival of these rare animals. I will give links to some of them just as an example:

Are current efforts sufficient? Unfortunately not. The lemur population continues to decline. We can only hope that all these activities will increase and revert negative trend.
Any, even the smallest, help is welcome. Whoever is interested and willing can help. Volunteer work, donations to organizations, remote adoption, but also spreading awareness about lemurs can help. One, although not the cheapest option to help is to visit Madagascar. By visiting national parks, reserves, and protected areas, you will contribute to their operation and further development. You will gain experiences for a lifetime and learn many details about the life of lemurs. Perhaps these animals will charm you as they did us. And maybe it will also help if you at least share this information with your friends or acquaintances. The English and Slovak versions of the blog are: https://www.ibartphotography.com/.

 
Finally, one more question. Why help the lemurs in particular? There are many endangered species of flora and fauna on our planet. Some will become extinct as a result of natural development. Most, however, are due to the changing environment caused by human activity. We must try to reduce the impact of humans on nature globally, which is a Sisyphean task that requires enormous effort and money and will take a very long time. That humankind can't do it? It must prove it in the interests of its survival. All endangered species must be protected. Lemur protection can be an example of how to manage these processes. The situation in Madagascar is a model example of the impact of human civilization on the recently stable ecosystem. The impact of the industry is low. Agricultural activity has a fundamental influence here. The island is ecologically isolated, and lemurs have populated all habitats. The country faces a great challenge. To introduce a model of economic development that can establish coexistence between humans and the surrounding nature. Is it just a dream? Maybe so. But humans have already realized many dreams in the history. Why not do this one too? Madagascar cannot do it alone, the whole world must help to do it.


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